Caroline's corset blog

Musings and progress from Caroline - projects she's working on, tips and tricks, and thoughts on corsetry

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Category: What I'm up to

  1. Experimental 'mod' corset underway

    Posted on

    It's funny where inspiration comes from. At the moment I am laid up with a broken leg - I  have a lower leg brace on that has 4 velcro straps and is set at a movemet of 60 degrees. I haven't been able to get the word 'brace' and 'strap' out of my brain these last 2 weeks and so embarked on a kind of study of splayed concentric circles on my mannequin. I love the clothes of the Mod movement and the Mod roundel was also in the back of my mind;

    IMG_20201208_223206_297

    I am totally making it up as I go along. The negative space is mesh and it basically consists of a front and back joined at the mid section at the waist and with a brace at the under-bust and hip. The curve achieved is all about that splayed negative space. It's a fun but time-consuming project!

  2. Regency-era quest continues

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    I'm not sure why I haven't explored simple Regency-style short stays as everyday bra wear before - they are surprisingly comfortable;

    Regency style bra

    I joined the strap to the front of the bodice with a short piece of elastic (covered in the same fabric) to allow a slight give across the shoulders. I like a firm shoulder strap but do feel restricted in movement if there is no stretch at-all. From my research into this era I have found that they did use stretch panels that were made from metal coils, however these were not added to straps I don't think. 

    I would like to reproduce some more of the extant examples of stays and corsets from this era, including those with elastic panels. Here is an example from the Kyoto Costume Institute;

    KCI stays

    © The Kyoto Costume Institute

    I can't find any photos of the front of the short version, annoyingly!

  3. Regency transitional stays (next project!)

    Posted on

    regency transitional stays front view

    I've been eyeing up the Regency period for a while, lining it up for a rainy day, but the catalyst came a few weeks ago from Jema Hewitt of Foundations Revealed. I write about one article a year for Foundations (I absolutely love writing articles by the way) - usually about drafting or anything to do with design using CAD. 'We have gaps in our library regarding Regency short stays' she said....'right, I said - I'll do it'.

    One thing about focusing upon a particular era is that the research is incredibly interesting. It's not just about the fashion I want to uncover, but a feel for the entire 'zeitgeist'. I want to know about the movers and shakers of the time, what they were writing, painting, and talking about. Not so long ago I wrote here about Mary Wollstonecraft (my muse for this article) which was odd because not long after this blog a memorial was erected in a park where I live in her memory (it has proved controversial but that's another story). 

    Blythe House is a V&A storage facility where you can request to see exhibits for research. I would have loved to have seen the famous transitional stays and interrogated them properly, but during this horrendous pandemic visiting this facility just isn't possible. The next best thing is to simply use the photos and come up with my own interpretation of them. I'll be describing this in more detail in the article but essentially I import the pics into CAD and look at  proportions by drawing lines all over them. Perspective gets in the way of course but testing my shapes on the form as I go along gets me there in the end.

    I'd like the article to be more general than a step by step this-is-how-you-make-it kind of thing so would like to weave a bit of history into it and cover the late eighteenth century 'transitional' stays as well. Here are the pics of my first attempt at these;

    side view resaved

    Quite a bit of pattern matching was involved and I used chamois leather to bind those fiddly tabs (the 'skirt' as it is technically known).